Group Obedience Class- Demonstrates a left & right finish after call to front

On the first recall I ask them to finish on the left and the second time I have them finish on the right.  The left is called a swing and the right the dog goes around on the handler's right then goes behind and ends up in the heel position with the dog on the left.

Now we have the Saturday class in the lobby demonstrating the same moves but with more distractions.  We have Nancy & Louie, Ann & Lava and Sue & Onslow.  We have Rally Obedience Classes here on Saturday morning at 11a.m.  It is a requirement for Level 1 that the dog  be able to finish on the left or the right.  Level 1 is on leash and Level 2 & 3 are done off leash with the signs that you follow  being more difficult.  Rally is a fun way to practice and compete in several organizations like AKC with or without a pedigree, UKC, or APDT.  Rally is something for those who look for a higher level of obedience.  It can be done for fun or for those who desire they can title dogs pedigree on not.  All you need is a dog that likes to work with you plus you will have a level of control that you can use to show off if you desire.  It just looks good to see a dog working obediently with their handler.  If you are interested give me a call and I'll invite you to come and watch a practice session.  Allan

To Fetch or Not to Fetch? Pflash will be 9 in July

     It is nice to select a puppy that wants to interact with the owner by playing with toys in the beginning.  For experienced trainers this is a part of the selection process because a goal has already been estlabished and to pick a partner with the same interest will aid in training.                                                               
     There are training organizations that require your dog to retrieve a wooden dumbell sometimes up to 3 pounds.  There are people who have a dog that will retrieve anything except a dumbell.  Why do you think that is?  Pressure.  For the first time the dog has to get something without play value, or so the handler is told or believes.  Here comes the age old question and debate, play or force.  I've had many discussions over the value of each.  Those that force say there is more reliability.  There is the Koehler method, e-collar, and, etc.  I believe the play method using the natural instinct for prey is more motivational and a dog trained in this manner will usually go quicker and more happily than a dog that is forced.  It is possible to force and with practice and positive communication also have a dog that will return quickly and top trainers are flexible and can apply a combination of all techniques. Although too many times with the pressure from a trial or competition when the handler gets stressed or the e-collar is removed the dog will no longer retrieve. 
     Unfortunately housebreaking issues often come between a handler and a dog that will listen.  To often, "come" or "here" means, I'm putting you in the crate, cutting your nails, showing you the molding or chair you chewed or the poop in the living room.... If you have a dog that will not come because they associate coming to you with disclipine they will avoid coming.  If you want to play sometimes the dog will not come to you because he fears you will take the toy away  and this causes avoidance.  This is why fetch should be taught with a dog on a leash.  #1) They must come.  #2) You can play tug.  This builds drive which can ultimately be used to motivate and also if you play tug or, "rock & roll" as I refer to tug, the dog will enjoy the interaction more than having you chase them for the toy.  Dogs need to think of the fun they have with you in terms that you define.  Once you play tug it is okay to let the dog win the prize and carry it while heeling. While walking or a call to front, I'll grab the toy preferably by the handle.  I like a ball or kong or rolled burlap with a handle or rope.  I only play if the dog has his end  (the wet end).
     I currently have a client's dog who only will get one ball and will not release it.  In order to teach the fetch I think it would be dangerous to stimulate play/prey drive holding a 3-4 inch diameter ball in my hand.  Training involves teaching the dog which end is his in a safe and controlled manner. There are important rules for tug.  I believe if you control the games you control the dog.  There must be "out" which teaches the dog that even though he has won the prize he must relinquish it to you. This is a controlled game that must be taught by adults.  Dogs need to learn they must give, "out" to our kids and with our help carefully make sure the dog does not learn he can take anything from what he considers his siblings or littermates.  There are trainers that say tug is dangerous and makes dogs mean.  It will make them dominant if they think they can win whenever they want any time they wish.
     When we build drive and then  control it we then use it to motivate the dog. Carry the ball to get eye contact while heeling, reward  for a quick sit by throwing "bring," or call to front and throw the ball for a reward after a close sit.  At first we use food to bait, later it can become a reward for doing what we asked but there is nothing more motivational than paying with a toy that is the source of the drive we build.
     The goal or target should be kept in mind.  Do not hope the dog will get the item then pray he will bring it to you then hopefully he will give it to you.  Be patient, go slow, teach and most important do not let your dog see stress or frustration because it will set you back.  Trainers must be flexible in their approach and watch for signs of avoidance.  Don't keep doing the same things that are not producing what you want
My dog, Pflash will sit next to me and wait as I throw the dumbell or ball on a rope.  I say, "bring" and he runs fast to get it and brings it back to me.  He sits in front of me and holds it until I ask for it, "out."  Then I say, "heel" and he finishes and sits next to me.  If I had him do that every time he would not go as fast or have as much fun and that's because he only has to perform once and most of the time its play.  I do not encourage too much tug with a dumbell because it can cause chewing but in the dogs mind its important it's just another toy.  I also would not teach the retrieve over a jump or scaling wall until the retrieve on the flat is perfected.  I will practice the jumps without a retrieve just going over and back.  Good Luck and remember the faster the retrieve the better it looks.

Tuesday Group Obedience Class

     This is a video of my Tuesday evening obedience group. If we have visitors we make sure to take advantage and have the dogs and handlers practice meet and greet with them. We usually start by walking around the room working on obedience exercises as a class.  The room is divided into four squares and as the dogs settle in we eventually work around two then one square.  Perhaps a dog will sit or down in the middle and the rest of the class will circle around and when we stop we all get as close as possible to the dog in the middle.  Sometimes there may be bowls of food also in the middle and maybe a vacuum cleaner or wheel chair or me making some kind of noise or distraction in the middle.  
     We began using the whole room and eventually worked tighter and closer weaving each other and figure eights, etc.  I set up a Rally Obedience course with the exercises we have been practicing and had each handler and dog go through the course individually.  This video is at the end when I had the class members all work on the pattern at the same time.  This is more like a real life senario where everyone has a little something different going on at the same time.